![]() ![]() Car Detailing and Show & Shine Prep sponsored by Autogeek.Car Audio & Electronics sponsored by Bavsound.Called dealer who seems to think it could be the sensor and was told to take back tomorrow to check. I did not bleed the pump as mentioned above. Tire & Wheel Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack Yellow coolant light still has not disappeared after changing coolant and hose.Suspension Tech and Handling sponsored by.Professional Motorsports sponsored by Bimmerworld.Track, Auto-X & Drag Racing sponsored by.General BMW and Automotive Discussion sponsored by Intercity Lines.Quick Navigation General BMW Mechanical Help sponsored by RM European Auto Parts Go Top Certainly, in Toronto, you'll want to keep your mixtures to somewhere very near 50% antifreeze. I'm suggesting you add 2-3 %, because it may fix your problem, for free.Īs for mixing.don't worry about that. Keep in mind that the system holds, oh, ~320 to~384 ounces. And I've added that extra cup, a dozen times at work, when customers had sporadic coolant lights.and it has worked, maybe 90% of the time when there was no evidence of other issues. This is also true of tire pressures, and I have people come into the shop every day this time of year, because their tire pressure warning light came on in the morning.Īnd I've told several people at this forum to add an extra cup, and it worked for them. The common reasons your BMW’s coolant light goes on and off are a defective coolant sensor, inaccurate antifreeze used for the vehicle, and leakage in the automobile’s cooling system. In the winter, coolant levels change significantly more than in summer. Reasons Why Your BMW Coolant Light Goes On and Off. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWhy do I recommend adding an extra cupful of coolant/water? Because your light came on, when the level was "officially perfect". Should I get pre mixed / diluted or concentrated? And adding water after adding coolant to the cold level won't cause any issues right ? Why do you recommend this? If you are not comfortable with working on the car then just follow the BMW bleeding directions - although I've found them inadequate for the occasional bimmer that had a stubborn air lock.Hey I'm about to grab the coolant. I have no issues with running one of these with the cap off up to about 90C which the t-stat is already starting to open. Use common sense - if the coolant is scalding hot - don't open the ET cap - use the bleed screw. You want the t-stat to at least partially open during bleeding to ensure you have full circulation - also check that heat is coming in the cabin - cause if you are not getting any heat then you might have a jammed heater valve. Occasionally revving the engine to about 2500 RPM also helps the waterpump push the coolant through the secondary channel that feeds the heater core and heater hose lines.Įdit: Now the thermostat will be closed if you start bleeding on a cold engine. For the next week, check your coolant level frequently (with a cold engine), to be sure that there is no ongoing leak that requires regular. Use a 50/50 coolant-and-water mix, as specified in your owner’s manual. Simply top up your coolant to the Max or Full level when the engine is cold. This is done easier with the front end raised, the heater valve open (heater on) and I usually have the ET Cap off for bleeding so the system can burp easily. Solution: This is potentially an easy fix. You'll need to bleed the coolant system and top it off. When the engine is revved the coolant will evacuate the expansion tank triggering the low level light - when you shut the car off and go to check the coolant level the vaccuum fills the ET so the level looks ok. So, the only simple way to find out where is the leak coming from is to flush this coolant, put some BMW coolant and see where I can find that white trail. Read the post above yours - you likely have an air bubble in your coolant. The only thing is the fact that I did not put BMW coolant in the tank, I filled the reservoir with à Yellowstone 50/50 coolant ( Peak is the brand name ). ![]()
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